My flight from Lima was scheduled at a very early 7:30am, meaning that I was up by 4 in the morning. After checking in, going through security, and being on our American Airlines flight, I was more than ready to return home. As the plane began to accelerate down the runway and pick up speed, it suddenly braked with a jerk, sending us all lurching forward as we came to a stop and producing a plume of smoke on our right side with a scent of burnt rubber. After taxing back to our gate, we learned that there was a problem with one of the engine's air filters, and would have to be fixed before we left.
All of us 200 or so passengers were herded into a waiting area for more than 3 hours until they fixed the problem and we were able to get on our way. By the time we made it to Miami, my connection to San Francisco had already left, despite my record time of 30 minutes making it through immigration and customs. I went to the American Airlines counter to see what they would do.
As I expected (and needed, as I have exhausted my funds) the airline provided me with a flight the next morning, a hotel room, and a food allowance. For that I was grateful, but did not particularly feel like a valued customer that they were concerned about inconveniencing. The food allowance was only $10 for dinner and $5 for breakfast. I didn't want to seem picky, so I didn't raise a fuss, although I would have preferred to eat something better than fast food after 3 months of traveling, 3 hours of waiting, 6 hours in a plane and spending the night alone in a strange city. (Plus, it was fast food instead of Mom's cooking waiting for me in California that night!)
Unfortunately, my slighted feelings were confirmed by a French tourist who I had talked to on my flight from Lima who was also delayed on his connection to Paris. From our conversation in the lobby of the hotel we were both put up in, I know that he at least received a voucher for dinner and lunch the next day, and that the value of his lunch voucher alone was $20.
Here, I will openly wonder what the basis of American Airlines' system for compensating inconvenienced travelers is. Some differences were clear, but I thought they would not matter: he was from France, I the U.S.; he was in his 50's, I am 24; he was Caucasian, I am African American. I won't be presumptuous enough as to make a guess as to the criterion by which American Airlines used to make their decision for different compensation levels, but I will get an answer from them.
That said, the same patience I needed throughout my time in South America (on buses, in stores, in hotels...) was still needed for the final legs of my journey home and is an important part of what I have gained through my travels over the last 3 months. Along with that, is an appreciation for the increased importance of families and relationships in South America, and the eagerness by which they demonstrated it. Also, I have more appreciation for the order, stability and trust that we have in American institutions, and a better understanding of how our superior wealth comforts all aspects of our daily lives. Of course, my use and comfort with the Spanish language (or castillano, if you will) is greater than it has ever been before, and I have had the privilege to visit some of the most spectacular cities and landscapes in the world in just a matter of months.
To me, it is an enigma as to why the cultures and economics of North and South America, the nations of the New World, are not more closely related and working together. However, after this fulfilling experience, I hope to find more ways of making that happen.
Wednesday, April 27, 2005
Tuesday, April 26, 2005
Lima, Peru
Having only a day and a half to spend in Lima, I mostly stuck to the Miraflores neighborhood near the beach, and explored it on foot. It was filled with Lima's middle class, with American-style malls, department stores and eateries dotting the area. However, the affluence the area did not quite match what I have seen in Sao Paulo, Buenos Aires, or Santiago. Nonetheless, the rocky beach was beautiful, I waded in the warm water, and I cheated for the first time on my trip by eating at Pizza Hut.
On the second day, my friend Christian, who met me at the airport, recovered from a one-day sickness and I joined him and his girlfriend for the evening. Downtown Lima, where we ate dinner, is filled with large plazas and colonial architecture, but is far more spread apart than other downtowns. From there we visited a bohemian neighborhood next to the coast and enjoyed views of the water while we sat in a small plaza.
It seemed to be a fitting cap to my trip, spending time with Christian who I met in the first stop of my journey, Rio de Janeiro. Being able to see him, meeting up with my Argentinean friends in La Plata, and staying with a friend of a friend in Sao Paulo were definitely highlights of my trip. Anyone can go travel to see a new place, but it is hard to understand it without an introduction by a local.
A view of Miraflores, Lima, Peru.
A cathedral in downtown Lima at night.
Christian and I.
Christian, myself and his girlfriend at the end of my last night of the trip.
On the second day, my friend Christian, who met me at the airport, recovered from a one-day sickness and I joined him and his girlfriend for the evening. Downtown Lima, where we ate dinner, is filled with large plazas and colonial architecture, but is far more spread apart than other downtowns. From there we visited a bohemian neighborhood next to the coast and enjoyed views of the water while we sat in a small plaza.
It seemed to be a fitting cap to my trip, spending time with Christian who I met in the first stop of my journey, Rio de Janeiro. Being able to see him, meeting up with my Argentinean friends in La Plata, and staying with a friend of a friend in Sao Paulo were definitely highlights of my trip. Anyone can go travel to see a new place, but it is hard to understand it without an introduction by a local.
A view of Miraflores, Lima, Peru. A cathedral in downtown Lima at night. Christian and I. Christian, myself and his girlfriend at the end of my last night of the trip. Sunday, April 24, 2005
Leaving Cusco and the Andes
For nearly 3 weeks, I have lived in, and explored the world of South America's Andes highlands. While the regions of South America have a lot common, in many ways, the highlands of the Andes were a world apart from the places I had been. While Chile and Argentina had strong European and cosmopolitan influences, Bolivia and Peru have been more isolated and shaped by indigenous culture and peoples. While the southern cone of South America had modern roads, infrastructure and amenities, the Andean highlands were unmistakably third-world, with decent housing, sanitation and roads all being challenges to obtain.
That said, Cusco was the jewel of the highlands. While the city is definitely over "touristized," the diversity of culture of the people, the gorgeous colonial architecture, the church-lined plazas, cobblestone street, and natural setting easily overrode the negatives and made it a great place to rest up both before and after the Inca Trail.
The night after the trail, I slept for 13 hours in my comfortable Cusco room, and took it easy the entire day. In the evenings, I was able to meet up with many of my trailmates, Armelle and Gerard from France, Silvio, Constanza, Romina, and Patricia from Argentina.
Today I took a flight from Cusco to Lima, and was pleasantly greeted by my friend Christian, whom I met at the beginning of my trip in Rio. I was also welcomed by the beautifully warm weather and the familiar Pacific Ocean after 3 weeks of chilly, near-freezing temperatures. My trip feels like it is effectively over, since my flight home leaves Tuesday morning, but I still have all day Monday to get a feel for Lima, Peru's capital city.
The main cathedral of Cusco, on the central Plaza de Armas in the center of the city. The Peruvian flag waves in front.
Another view of the plaza.
Another cathedral on the Plaza de Armas.
A gated roadway in Cusco.
Another cathedral along a cobbled roadway and wall in the city.
A chance meeting outside the Inca Museum in Cusco with Duda, my friend from Sao Paulo who I last saw in January.
Another colonial street in the city.
That said, Cusco was the jewel of the highlands. While the city is definitely over "touristized," the diversity of culture of the people, the gorgeous colonial architecture, the church-lined plazas, cobblestone street, and natural setting easily overrode the negatives and made it a great place to rest up both before and after the Inca Trail.
The night after the trail, I slept for 13 hours in my comfortable Cusco room, and took it easy the entire day. In the evenings, I was able to meet up with many of my trailmates, Armelle and Gerard from France, Silvio, Constanza, Romina, and Patricia from Argentina.
Today I took a flight from Cusco to Lima, and was pleasantly greeted by my friend Christian, whom I met at the beginning of my trip in Rio. I was also welcomed by the beautifully warm weather and the familiar Pacific Ocean after 3 weeks of chilly, near-freezing temperatures. My trip feels like it is effectively over, since my flight home leaves Tuesday morning, but I still have all day Monday to get a feel for Lima, Peru's capital city.
The main cathedral of Cusco, on the central Plaza de Armas in the center of the city. The Peruvian flag waves in front. Another view of the plaza. Another cathedral on the Plaza de Armas. A gated roadway in Cusco.
Another cathedral along a cobbled roadway and wall in the city. A chance meeting outside the Inca Museum in Cusco with Duda, my friend from Sao Paulo who I last saw in January. Another colonial street in the city. Saturday, April 23, 2005
Photos: Macchu Picchu
In the foggy morning, Macchu Picchu comes into view. 
Macchu Picchu. 
Looking downslope. 
I have arrived.
The city to the left, and the Urubamba River valley to the right. 
Looking back up to the Puerta del Sol. 
The doorway to the city.
A view from inside.
Looking back uphill at the guardtower. 
Another view from inside. 
One of our guides, Ernesto speaking to our subgroup in English. 
A temple usually used for llama sacrifices, and rarely, for human ones. 
Temple of the Sun. 
The "country" royal palace. The main royal residence was in Cusco. 
The Macchu Picchu Orchid, which only grows in this area.
A grand courtyard between temples on the higher plateau of the city. 
Another temple. 
A special stone which marks the cardinal directions from within the city. 
A carved rock, reflecting the mountain range right behind it. It was believed to be used as a map to demonstrate how to reach another settlement behind the nearest mountain. 
An astrological stone used to mark summer and winter solstices. 
Llamas in the central courtyard. 
Temple of the Condor. The central stone on the ground represents its head, while two large stones behind it represent its wings. 
Looking towards the farm terraces. 
A crypt inside the city, with the steps representing part of Andean religious belief that is related to the form of the Andean Cross. 
Looking back. 
Eating lunch after our final day. From left to right, Constanza, Silvio, Gerald, Myself, Krishna, Vivek, Sami, Arhmelle, Romina and Patricia. 
Our guide Ernesto and I, both glad to be finished!Photos: The Inca Trail
Beginning the Inca Trail. From left to right, Flavia, Silvio, Isabella, Mary Angela, Constanza, Ahmelle, Patricia, Gerald, Krishna, Romina, Sami, Vivek, and me. 
One of our guides, William, discussing Inca religion in some ruins on the first day.
The valley where we camped the first day. 
Crossing the Urubamba River to begin the trail on the morning of the 2nd day. 
A view of ruins placed at the confluence of the Urubamba River and a smaller mountain stream that leads into the mountains. We took a left and headed upward. 
A bit of relief in the cold snow melt of the mountain stream after climbing for a couple of hours.
Everyone else relaxing as well. 
The trail begins its steep ascent without relief until Dead Woman's Pass.
The landscape changes to forest. 
Falling short of our goal, we camp on a small plateau still 3km from Dead Woman's Pass. 
The view from the campsite looking the other way into the deep valley from which we came. 
On the morning of the 3rd day, finally reaching Dead Woman's Pass. 
Jubilation.
Our guides, Ernesto and William.
At the lowest point between the first two passes, the path rises again.
An unforgettable view from the bottom of the valley off to the right. 
Looking back up at Dead Woman's Pass. 
Inca ruins of a religious purpose between the two passes. 
An Inca Tunnel after the second pass.
The trail continues...
...and continues... 
A second tunnel.
In the midst of this long, 3rd day, it begins to rain.
Beautiful flowers I couldn't pass up. 
Ruins on the other side of the 3rd pass. The path descended drastically from this point forward. 
Mountains to the north of the trail, across the Urubamba river valley, which is far below the picture. 
A gorgeous rainbow in the same mountains minutes later. 
The morning of the 4th and final day. 
The ruins of Puerta del Sol (Doorway of the Sun), from which it is possible to see Macchu Picchu... 
...however, because of the ubiquitous clouds, we could not. Friday, April 22, 2005
Macchu Picchu (Inca Trail, final day)
In the morning after our last night of camp, we awoke at 5am to a light drizzle that quickly turned into a steady rain. After having our usual breakfast of pan(bread), pankekes(pancakes), and tea, we set out for the last stretch of the Inca Trail, in the midst of an enveloping and ubiquitous fog.
Fortunately, our group decision the night before to set off 1 hour later than the other groups worked to our advantage. Despite sharing a campsite with the other groups for the first time, and despite the massive number of them, we didn't run into any other groups along our way there. The trail was as quiet, empty, and, seemingly, ours as it had been the entire 4 days.
The trek, while short, was still a bit of a challenge, not because of the terrain, but because all of us had extremely sore and tired muscles. The shortest climbs, or stairways downward were taken slowly and with extra caution. Nonetheless, the last challenge of the trail presented itself as a practically vertical set of twenty or so stairs to reach a small plateau. There we saw that we were close to our goal, as we had reached the Inca Puerta del Sol. (Doorway of the Sun.)
From that vantage point, we waited 20 minutes for the clouds to clear so that we could get a view down to the famed city of Macchu Picchu. But the weather did not cooperate. Disappointed, but heartened by our proximity, we began the final descent to the ruins. Knowing that the goal was close, I took a much slower stride than in days before an had a great conversation along the way with our guide Ernesto.
Finally, mid-descent, the clouds began to break and the sun squirted through, giving us the first glimpse of Macchu Picchu. While I had seen the setting in pictures a hundred times before, I was not prepared for the grand size of the entire city. In its day, Macchu Picchu not only housed over 2000 residents and was the location of the Inca royal "country palace," but it included several temples, astrological sites, a rock quarry, and acres upon acres of terraced farmland.
After taking more pictures than I can count, our guide took us on a tour of the complex, not only explaining the significance of the buildings, but also sharing a little bit about Inca religious beliefs and their evolution. After spending 3 and a half hours in the complex, I was exhausted, not only from the time walking around and listening to the commentary, but from the cumulative 4 days of unsurpassed physical effort. Also contributing to my exhaustion was the rapidly changing environment of the ruins, as trainload after trainload of tourists began to fill up the park. Frustration from the increased gridlock, and vastly different vibe they projected than our fellow hikers assured me that I had enjoyed as much as I was going to of the park that day.
That said, the first 2 hours at the park, between 8:30 and 10:30am were tranquil and perfect. In confirmed all of the suggestions I had received to do the hike in order to enjoy the park before the hordes of people arrived. Furthermore, the 4 days of hiking felt like a communion with nature, in mountainous settings that were breathtaking, traversing through vastly different climates. Day after day, the purity of the land and air, and the beauty of the landscape seemed to be magnified into an unforgettable experience. And pushing myself to the physical limit day after day is something I'll always remember.
In the afternoon, the group reunited in a small restaurant in the nearby town of Agua Caliente while we waited for our trains back to Cusco. It was good to see each other, and we traded stories from our day's experiences as well as our contact information for the future. Again, I was incredibly fortunate to be placed with this group of people who were mostly from South America. Observing the group dynamics and characteristics of many of the other groups, dominated by and catered to Western tourists who just wanted to party on the trail, I know that I would not have enjoyed my experience as much had I been with them.
For me, the Inca Trail was more than just a hike, it was a journey to understand something of Inca and Quechua culture, to respect and appreciate the uniqueness of the Andes, and it was a vehicle through which to test oneself and make a reflection of the soul. To those ends, my groupmates served as partners, and my experience was the richer for it.
Fortunately, our group decision the night before to set off 1 hour later than the other groups worked to our advantage. Despite sharing a campsite with the other groups for the first time, and despite the massive number of them, we didn't run into any other groups along our way there. The trail was as quiet, empty, and, seemingly, ours as it had been the entire 4 days.
The trek, while short, was still a bit of a challenge, not because of the terrain, but because all of us had extremely sore and tired muscles. The shortest climbs, or stairways downward were taken slowly and with extra caution. Nonetheless, the last challenge of the trail presented itself as a practically vertical set of twenty or so stairs to reach a small plateau. There we saw that we were close to our goal, as we had reached the Inca Puerta del Sol. (Doorway of the Sun.)
From that vantage point, we waited 20 minutes for the clouds to clear so that we could get a view down to the famed city of Macchu Picchu. But the weather did not cooperate. Disappointed, but heartened by our proximity, we began the final descent to the ruins. Knowing that the goal was close, I took a much slower stride than in days before an had a great conversation along the way with our guide Ernesto.
Finally, mid-descent, the clouds began to break and the sun squirted through, giving us the first glimpse of Macchu Picchu. While I had seen the setting in pictures a hundred times before, I was not prepared for the grand size of the entire city. In its day, Macchu Picchu not only housed over 2000 residents and was the location of the Inca royal "country palace," but it included several temples, astrological sites, a rock quarry, and acres upon acres of terraced farmland.
After taking more pictures than I can count, our guide took us on a tour of the complex, not only explaining the significance of the buildings, but also sharing a little bit about Inca religious beliefs and their evolution. After spending 3 and a half hours in the complex, I was exhausted, not only from the time walking around and listening to the commentary, but from the cumulative 4 days of unsurpassed physical effort. Also contributing to my exhaustion was the rapidly changing environment of the ruins, as trainload after trainload of tourists began to fill up the park. Frustration from the increased gridlock, and vastly different vibe they projected than our fellow hikers assured me that I had enjoyed as much as I was going to of the park that day.
That said, the first 2 hours at the park, between 8:30 and 10:30am were tranquil and perfect. In confirmed all of the suggestions I had received to do the hike in order to enjoy the park before the hordes of people arrived. Furthermore, the 4 days of hiking felt like a communion with nature, in mountainous settings that were breathtaking, traversing through vastly different climates. Day after day, the purity of the land and air, and the beauty of the landscape seemed to be magnified into an unforgettable experience. And pushing myself to the physical limit day after day is something I'll always remember.
In the afternoon, the group reunited in a small restaurant in the nearby town of Agua Caliente while we waited for our trains back to Cusco. It was good to see each other, and we traded stories from our day's experiences as well as our contact information for the future. Again, I was incredibly fortunate to be placed with this group of people who were mostly from South America. Observing the group dynamics and characteristics of many of the other groups, dominated by and catered to Western tourists who just wanted to party on the trail, I know that I would not have enjoyed my experience as much had I been with them.
For me, the Inca Trail was more than just a hike, it was a journey to understand something of Inca and Quechua culture, to respect and appreciate the uniqueness of the Andes, and it was a vehicle through which to test oneself and make a reflection of the soul. To those ends, my groupmates served as partners, and my experience was the richer for it.
Thursday, April 21, 2005
The Trial (Inca Trail, day 3)
I completely understand now why some people call it the "Inca Trial." It is definitely a test, and a kind of measure of worthiness and determination. I thought that yesterday was difficult, but today we walked from 5:30am until 7:20pm, nearly fourteen hours of continuous hiking, minus breaks and lunch. I definitely have a blister now, and my legs are so tired and sore that I can hardly move around in my tent. Yet I have a ton of satisfaction in the fact that I have walked further and higher than I ever thought possible.
We awoke at 4:30am and set off at 5:30 to conquer the final 1/3rd of the infamous climb to Dead Woman's Pass. Even yesterday's hike did not prepare me for the ferocity of the climb, nevertheless, I was the second to the top, and celebrated with a shout having reached the 13,776ft pass. If you were to have invited me to camp at 6000ft and then climb to a 13,000ft peak with you, I would never have attempted it, but the allure of the Inca Trail has drawn me to do more than I ever would have before.
Surprisingly, the descent down the other side of the pass was just as difficult for me as the climb. My surgically repaired knee reacts especially badly to going down steep stairways.
We had a late breakfast at the lowest point between the two passes, in the midst of intense sunshine and 70 degrees (Fahrenheit) of heat. It was a disorienting change from the near-freezing temperature of our high-altitude campsite earlier this morning. We continued from there to the second, slightly lower pass where we learned about an Inca ceremony thanking Pachamama (Mother Earth) for good provisions during a journey.
From there, we descended and then climbed again to the third and final pass of the trail. Along the way, we passed through the dense vegetation of the "cloud forests," named because of the sub-tropical growth of the area, and the fact that it is at such a high elevation that clouds routinely pass through the forest several times a day like fog.
Immediately after the third pass, we waited for our guide to talk to us about a set of ruins there, but it began to downpour. So instead, we immediately began the extremely steep descent toward our campsite, which consisted of a stairway of supposedly 2000 stairs down. Along the way, as I kept count, we caught sight of the nearest settled town to Macchu Picchu, Agua Caliente, as well as a spectacular rainbow, hung between two clouds at the level of the string of peaks across the deep valley to our right.
While walking, day turned into night very quickly, and soon it was necessary to descend by flashlight. It was dark when we finally came to the sign directing us to our camp, and by that time, I had counted 2094 stairs. Tired, hungry, and rushed by the darkness, we were comforted by the thought that we were near our destination. Little did we know that we still had 598 stairs down to go. When we finally arrived, at 7:15pm, it had been pitch dark for an hour, I was exhausted, and my legs were jelly. I don't think I've ever been so sore or tired.
The good news is that tomorrow is the 4th and final day, and we only have 6km to go, as opposed to the 22km and 3 mountain passes we did today. Should we wake on time and stay on schedule, we should arrive at the ancient city 2 hours before the first train of tourists, giving us some time to explore its mysteries without distraction.
We awoke at 4:30am and set off at 5:30 to conquer the final 1/3rd of the infamous climb to Dead Woman's Pass. Even yesterday's hike did not prepare me for the ferocity of the climb, nevertheless, I was the second to the top, and celebrated with a shout having reached the 13,776ft pass. If you were to have invited me to camp at 6000ft and then climb to a 13,000ft peak with you, I would never have attempted it, but the allure of the Inca Trail has drawn me to do more than I ever would have before.
Surprisingly, the descent down the other side of the pass was just as difficult for me as the climb. My surgically repaired knee reacts especially badly to going down steep stairways.
We had a late breakfast at the lowest point between the two passes, in the midst of intense sunshine and 70 degrees (Fahrenheit) of heat. It was a disorienting change from the near-freezing temperature of our high-altitude campsite earlier this morning. We continued from there to the second, slightly lower pass where we learned about an Inca ceremony thanking Pachamama (Mother Earth) for good provisions during a journey.
From there, we descended and then climbed again to the third and final pass of the trail. Along the way, we passed through the dense vegetation of the "cloud forests," named because of the sub-tropical growth of the area, and the fact that it is at such a high elevation that clouds routinely pass through the forest several times a day like fog.
Immediately after the third pass, we waited for our guide to talk to us about a set of ruins there, but it began to downpour. So instead, we immediately began the extremely steep descent toward our campsite, which consisted of a stairway of supposedly 2000 stairs down. Along the way, as I kept count, we caught sight of the nearest settled town to Macchu Picchu, Agua Caliente, as well as a spectacular rainbow, hung between two clouds at the level of the string of peaks across the deep valley to our right.
While walking, day turned into night very quickly, and soon it was necessary to descend by flashlight. It was dark when we finally came to the sign directing us to our camp, and by that time, I had counted 2094 stairs. Tired, hungry, and rushed by the darkness, we were comforted by the thought that we were near our destination. Little did we know that we still had 598 stairs down to go. When we finally arrived, at 7:15pm, it had been pitch dark for an hour, I was exhausted, and my legs were jelly. I don't think I've ever been so sore or tired.
The good news is that tomorrow is the 4th and final day, and we only have 6km to go, as opposed to the 22km and 3 mountain passes we did today. Should we wake on time and stay on schedule, we should arrive at the ancient city 2 hours before the first train of tourists, giving us some time to explore its mysteries without distraction.
Wednesday, April 20, 2005
Inca Trail, Day 2
Day two got started a little slowly, with the wakeup call coming at 5am, and us not getting going until 6:30. We started along the trail cutting through the valley along the river until we reached the ruins of Llactapata, a large complex which in its day contained residents, commerce, and farming, as well as being a military checkpoint from its strategic location in the valley.
From there we continued along a taxing path that included many climbs and descents, until we reached a bridge crossing a smaller side river. With a little bit of time on our hands, we lost our shoes and socks and dipped our feet in the chilly water of the snow melt.
The bridge marked the beginning of a grueling 9km stretch of the trail that would elevate us over 3000 feet, until we reached the Dead Woman's Pass, which sits at 13,776ft. The path was merciless, continuing with a steep incline without a level portion or a descent for the entire way. At several portions, the path was so steep that the Inca constructed stone stairways to make the climb. But some of the inclines were so sharp that they were steeper than a normal staircase.
For me, this 2 and a half hour portion of the hike (after 5 hours of strenuous hiking already) was a great test of physical willpower. When the step paths would turn a corner, I would pray to see an even stretch, but every turn led to steeper and steeper inclines, some which seemed to go straight up. There was no relief, and having to maintain such a slow pace, it was impossible to judge my progress.
Overall, we did not reach our goal today of camping on the other side of the pass, as half our group struggled with the ascent, and needed additional time to finish it. Nonetheless, it was an impressive effort. 18km and elevating over 4000ft on the day. Unfortunately, I can tell that I am already getting a blister, and both of my knees are sore on the eve of a huge descent. But I was surprised that I was able to do what I did, as I was the first in the group to reach the campsite, despite never having done a hike like this ever before.
Our campsite tonight is just a couple of kilometers away from Dead Woman's Pass, and has a spectacular view down into the valley from which we just climbed. Exactly opposite us is a grand mountain that must be 3000m from base to peak, and surrounding us at our high altitude are a group of peaks that guard our small plateau.
Tomorrow will supposedly be an easier day of hiking with us attempting to cover 22km, with the last half of the hike going downhill. If we are successful, it will leave us with 6km to go to Macchu Picchu for the final day. Tomorrow we will attempt to leave at 5 in the morning.
From there we continued along a taxing path that included many climbs and descents, until we reached a bridge crossing a smaller side river. With a little bit of time on our hands, we lost our shoes and socks and dipped our feet in the chilly water of the snow melt.
The bridge marked the beginning of a grueling 9km stretch of the trail that would elevate us over 3000 feet, until we reached the Dead Woman's Pass, which sits at 13,776ft. The path was merciless, continuing with a steep incline without a level portion or a descent for the entire way. At several portions, the path was so steep that the Inca constructed stone stairways to make the climb. But some of the inclines were so sharp that they were steeper than a normal staircase.
For me, this 2 and a half hour portion of the hike (after 5 hours of strenuous hiking already) was a great test of physical willpower. When the step paths would turn a corner, I would pray to see an even stretch, but every turn led to steeper and steeper inclines, some which seemed to go straight up. There was no relief, and having to maintain such a slow pace, it was impossible to judge my progress.
Overall, we did not reach our goal today of camping on the other side of the pass, as half our group struggled with the ascent, and needed additional time to finish it. Nonetheless, it was an impressive effort. 18km and elevating over 4000ft on the day. Unfortunately, I can tell that I am already getting a blister, and both of my knees are sore on the eve of a huge descent. But I was surprised that I was able to do what I did, as I was the first in the group to reach the campsite, despite never having done a hike like this ever before.
Our campsite tonight is just a couple of kilometers away from Dead Woman's Pass, and has a spectacular view down into the valley from which we just climbed. Exactly opposite us is a grand mountain that must be 3000m from base to peak, and surrounding us at our high altitude are a group of peaks that guard our small plateau.
Tomorrow will supposedly be an easier day of hiking with us attempting to cover 22km, with the last half of the hike going downhill. If we are successful, it will leave us with 6km to go to Macchu Picchu for the final day. Tomorrow we will attempt to leave at 5 in the morning.
Tuesday, April 19, 2005
Inca Trail, Day 1
Day one of this trek has been a little bit disorganized and late-starting, but has been wonderfully beautiful nonetheless. The day started slowly, with my van pickup only coming late, then, after a much longer drive than I expected, we stopped for breakfast in a small village called Urubamba for 40 minutes. By the time we finally got to the trail, it was after 11am.
We started 5km back farther than usual because of repairs being made to the dirt road, so our hike of substance was only from km 77 to km 82. After lunching and setting up camp we had some time to chill. Our group included an Argentinean couple, an Argentinean mother and daughter, a French couple, 3 east Indian friends, 3 Brazilian cousins, and me.
After the break our two guides led us from our camp 5km to a small Inca ruin on the other side of the river from the trial. There, they shared small theories on how Macchu Picchu was hidden from the Spanish (it was only discovered again in 1911). They also explained the significance of the style of architecture of the ruins, including the significance of the number of windows featured in temples.
Upon returning to the camp, I was again I couldn't help but notice the beauty of the place we were in. A fertile valley, with a rocky, rolling river cutting down the center. On both sides, the landscape climbs steeply into sharp peaks, and, in places, are capped with snow that looks close enough to touch. The rolling clouds that threatened rain, but never delivered, allowed just a sliver of sunlight to filter through, highlighting the hillsides and creating a surreal effect.
Still being 46km away from that ancient city, I already am experiencing the satisfaction and wonder of being in such a spectacular place. Tomorrow should be the toughest day of hiking, as we will cover 24km, including a harrowing 9km ascent to 4200m, a place called Dead Women's Pass. In order to achieve this, we'll all rise at 4:30am tomorrow morning, drink our ordered cups of coca tea, and get on our way.
We started 5km back farther than usual because of repairs being made to the dirt road, so our hike of substance was only from km 77 to km 82. After lunching and setting up camp we had some time to chill. Our group included an Argentinean couple, an Argentinean mother and daughter, a French couple, 3 east Indian friends, 3 Brazilian cousins, and me.
After the break our two guides led us from our camp 5km to a small Inca ruin on the other side of the river from the trial. There, they shared small theories on how Macchu Picchu was hidden from the Spanish (it was only discovered again in 1911). They also explained the significance of the style of architecture of the ruins, including the significance of the number of windows featured in temples.
Upon returning to the camp, I was again I couldn't help but notice the beauty of the place we were in. A fertile valley, with a rocky, rolling river cutting down the center. On both sides, the landscape climbs steeply into sharp peaks, and, in places, are capped with snow that looks close enough to touch. The rolling clouds that threatened rain, but never delivered, allowed just a sliver of sunlight to filter through, highlighting the hillsides and creating a surreal effect.
Still being 46km away from that ancient city, I already am experiencing the satisfaction and wonder of being in such a spectacular place. Tomorrow should be the toughest day of hiking, as we will cover 24km, including a harrowing 9km ascent to 4200m, a place called Dead Women's Pass. In order to achieve this, we'll all rise at 4:30am tomorrow morning, drink our ordered cups of coca tea, and get on our way.
Monday, April 18, 2005
The Adventure Begins...
I am currently sitting in a cold, Cusco internet cafe, keeping the owners up much later than they would like, but I thought it was important to write that I am beginning the Inca Trail early tomorrow morning.
By the time I reach the mystical city of Macchu Picchu, I will have trekked almost 50km, and climbed and descended over 6000ft. It will take 4 days, so they'll be no posts or pictures for a while, but I hope to bring back something spectacular...
By the time I reach the mystical city of Macchu Picchu, I will have trekked almost 50km, and climbed and descended over 6000ft. It will take 4 days, so they'll be no posts or pictures for a while, but I hope to bring back something spectacular...
Sunday, April 17, 2005
The Motorcycle Diaries
I just finished watching "The Motorcycle Diaries," and it has had a much more profound impact on me than I expected. The timing to see this movie for the first time was perfect, at a point where both the loneliness of my journey was pulling me into a shell, and when then the constant begging and selling that I have encountered Cusco (and in the Andean highlands) was nudging me toward bitterness.
I won't recount the movie for those who have seen it, but for those who haven't, it is fascinating and I recommend it highly. Whether I agreed with his methods or conclusions I cannot say (as I don't know much about him), but it was inspiring to see Che Gueverra's character become motivated by the many injustices and imbalances that are still clearly delineated by race in South America today.
Overall, the movie led me to make unfair comparisons to my own travels, due to the quality of his writing and the depth of interaction he had with people along the way. But perhaps, most importantly, watching the movie has given me new energy to complete this trip as I had started it... eager to have genuine interactions with people, and to keep my eyes and ears open to all of the spectacular experiences around me.
I won't recount the movie for those who have seen it, but for those who haven't, it is fascinating and I recommend it highly. Whether I agreed with his methods or conclusions I cannot say (as I don't know much about him), but it was inspiring to see Che Gueverra's character become motivated by the many injustices and imbalances that are still clearly delineated by race in South America today.
Overall, the movie led me to make unfair comparisons to my own travels, due to the quality of his writing and the depth of interaction he had with people along the way. But perhaps, most importantly, watching the movie has given me new energy to complete this trip as I had started it... eager to have genuine interactions with people, and to keep my eyes and ears open to all of the spectacular experiences around me.
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