One Day in La Plata

Midday Monday, battling an onsetting cold, I boarded a rickety, third-world style commuter train for an hour and a half journey south to La Plata. When I finally arrived, it was clear that I had left the modern, convenient, and very European world of Buenos Aires. The station was a bit run down, and the bathroom stall had a toilet without a seat on it. Nevertheless, there were two locutorios within a short distance, and I used one to check my email and call my friend to let him know I arrived.

When Gaston found me at our meeting place, he immediately greeted me like an old friend. In South America, it seems that hospitality and relationships take much higher priority than other places I've been. It had been 8 weeks since I'd seen him, Felipe, and Chino in Rio, but it didn't matter. In a short time walking around his neighborhood, I met his mom, Felipe's mom and dad in their wine store, and the 4th member of the tight group of friends, Chori.

Gaston and Chori took me on an unofficial tour of the City of La Plata, which was a more interesting place than I expected it to be. It was built some time after Buenos Aires and was master-planned by a famous architect with a grid network of streets crisscrossed by diagonal ones. All of the streets are "calles" and are identified by successive numbers, whether they run north-south or east-west. To my knowledge, there are no named streets in the whole city. Interestingly, the city was briefly named after Evita Peron shortly after her death. Evita was a famous, popular, and influential first lady back in the 50s or 60s, but today, her legacy is as controversial and divisive as George W. Bush's presidency. However, La Plata's biggest claim to fame is that the largest cathedral in South America was built there.

After touring the city and cathedral, Gaston had to work at the local convenience store and Chori and I hung out with him until the others arrived. Even though I hate the movie, the scene reminded me of the movie Clerks. When Felipe and Chino arrived, the four of us drove to the outskirts of town to have an asado at Felipe's house. Gaston arrived a little later with the meat and we started our late dinner. The time of sobremesa was great, with us all remembering the stories and crazy people we knew from our time in Rio. While it was satisfying to see that my Spanish had improved significantly from our time in Brazil, there were still many moments where I could not follow the conversation. Every day I experience the ups and downs of my progress, or lack thereof.

After the late night and comfortable sleep at Felipe's family's home, I ate breakfast with him and returned north to BA by train. Even though I had been fighting a cold the entire time there, I was very glad that I made the trip. For me, it fulfilled a promise made in Rio, and allowed me to once again experience the openness and hospitality of Argentines. I look forward to the day when I meet up with my amigos platenses again.

The cathedral in La Plata from the middle of a large plaza.



The cathedral up close.


The cornerstone of the city of La Plata, in the middle of the plaza facing the cathedral, in the geographic center of the city.


Chori and Gaston, surrounding their "old buddy," the architect of the city.


From left to right, Chino, Chori, myself, Felipe and Gaston during sobremesa.